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Universal Genève Compax Yellow Gold, ref. 184.440, circa 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Genève Compax Yellow Gold, ref. 184.440, circa 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
c. 1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k Yellow Gold
Dimensions
Diameter 35 mm
Stock no.
CUR327
Credit line
Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR327)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève Compax 184.440 Yellow Gold (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR327), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k Yellow Gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge

Universal Genève Compax Chronograph reference 184.440 in 18k yellow gold. This example is from when the brand was revived in the early 1990s and features a Lemania calibre 1873 manual wind movement. This reference in features a stunning solid gold 35mm case with “Lyre” lugs which were synonymous to the 1960s UG Compax cases.

Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge

Reference: 184.440; Metal: 18k Yellow Gold; Movement: Manual-Wind Lemania Cal. 1873; Case diameter: 35mm; Bracelet/strap: Molequin Tan Nubuck Strap

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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