Universal Genève “Cioccolatone“ 18k Rose Gold Oversized Dress-watch with unique Guilloché Dial on Brick Style Bracelet ref. 10228 2, 1950s

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

Today, we have a unique offering: an 18k rose gold Universal Genève “Cioccolatone”!! The most defining feature is the distinctive curved square—or pillow-shaped—case, often described as a "curved square" or "quadrilateral." The name Cioccolatone is Italian for "big chocolate," referring to the case's resemblance to a square of Swiss chocolate. These oversized cases were mostly used from the 1940s until around 1960 by brands like Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Longines, and others. However, the design never really took off at the time—likely because square cases were more difficult to waterproof. Round watches could more easily accommodate screw-down case backs, whereas square watches couldn't. As a result, these designs were produced in limited quantities, making superb examples like this one incredibly rare today. In hand, we have a truly exceptional Universal Genève. Universal Genève (UG) was founded in 1894 as Universal Watch in Le Locle, Switzerland, by Numa Descombes and Ulysse Perret. The brand specialized in both watch movements and cases. After relocating to Geneva in 1919, UG gained prominence for its high-quality chronographs. and time only pieces like the iconic Compax and Polerouter models—and for its innovative micro-rotor automatic movements. The brand’s fortunes declined after the quartz crisis of the 1970s, but in 2023, the name was acquired by Breitling, signaling a potential revival and return to its legacy of excellence. This oversized 30 x 30 mm case (which wears even larger than the numbers suggest!) is crafted in 18k rose gold and features a striking sloped bezel—we’ve truly never seen another case like it. The snap-on case back retains both its serial and reference numbers, still fully readable and sharp. The second star of the show is the exquisite guilloché dial. Finished in a warm cream tone, it features two different guilloché techniques—almost giving it a sunray-like appearance. There’s no lume on the dial, and the sharp dauphine hands complete this elegant mid-century design perfectly. We’ve never seen another one like it—and perhaps we can even conclude this is a piece unique? The watch is paired with an 18k yellow gold brick-style bracelet with nine rows. While the bracelet is yellow gold (not rose), we love the look—it feels very period correct. It fits wrists up to 19 cm. Surprisingly, this is an automatic watch—powered by UG’s hammer automatic Caliber 138SS. This super-elegant dress watch has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. If we could keep a watch for ourselves, this would definitely be a contender, in hand it will blow one’s mind. A smart collector should snap this up—one would never regret owning such a beautiful piece! Specifications Universal Genève reference 10228 2 Dress-watch Rare 30x30 mm steel 18 k pink gold “Cioccolatone” case Serial 161xxxx dates to 1950s Non lume guilloché “sun-ray “ cream colour dial, applied logo, Dauphine hands UG Calibre 138SS hammer automatic wind movement 18 k yellow gold nine rows brick style bracelet Fully serviced by our watchmaker Includes a handmade leather watch pouch