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Universal Geneve Calatrava (Ref. 111201 1) 18K Rose Gold, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Universal Geneve Calatrava (Ref. 111201 1) 18K Rose Gold, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k rose gold
Stock no.
UGCRG1112011
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (UGCRG1112011)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Universal Geneve Calatrava (Ref. 111201 1) 18K Rose Gold (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number UGCRG1112011), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k rose gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Universal Geneve has long been "the watch enthusiast's watch" as the brand's cult-like, but steadily growing following has remained out of the scope of the mega-mainstream. The brand isn't without a few icons however, boasting unmistakable models such as the Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter, the "Nina Rindt" Compax chronographs, and the ultra-complicated Tri-Compax that Eric Clapton made famous for wearing. Born in 1894 LeLocle, Switzerland as Universal Watch, the co-founders Ulysee Perret and Numa Descombes originally set out as a watch part manufacturer, but as their business grew so did their offerings. In 1919 they moved their operation to Geneva, officially creating Universal Geneve. By 1925, UG had designed their first automatic movement known as the Auto Rem. Though Universal Geneve eventually produced a broad range of watches intended for vastly different applications, each model shared one crucial commonality, elegance. This unique, simple, and downright charming Calatrava ref. 111201 1 is elegance personified. Paring 18K rose gold with a modest silver dial and bold dauphine hands elevates the otherwise "less is more" aesthetic to make for a gorgeous timepiece suitable for the true enthusiast. SPECS Stock # UGCRG1112011 Brand Universal Geneve Style Calatrava Model 111201 1 Serial 25XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Rose Gold Dial Silver Millimeters 33.5 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The classic 18K rose gold Calatrava-style case is in impressive original condition, believed to remain unpolished as the original finishing remains undisturbed apart from gentle signs of use. The case retains its original UG-signed crown. The case back markings all remain present in deep and crisp condition. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The silver sunburst dial featuring a rose gold applied logo and markers is in exceptionally well-preserved condition, featuring no notable age or damage outside of a subtle mark between the 8 and 9 o'clock markers. The original Rose gold dauphine hands are in near-flawless condition as well. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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