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Universal Genève 'Bathtub' Dress Watch, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Universal Geneve (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
40992970
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40992970)
Catalogue title (original)
Universal Genève 'Bathtub' Dress Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40992970), this is a wristwatch by Universal Geneve, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

While Universal Genève may be most famed for its Compax chronographs and the beloved Polerouter, its svelte dress watches are equally compelling. Throughout the latter half of the 20th century, UG designed simple, time-only watches alongside its more complicated brethren that played with shape, color, and design in interesting and novel ways. Take this dressy Ref. 842117 , for example: Dating to the 1970s, it features a 24 x 35 mm stainless steel Tank-like case with a smooth bezel, an acrylic crystal, a signed crown, and a lovely black dial with applied 'baton' indices and a matching 'pencil' handset. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it comes paired to a Universal Genève-signed black leather strap with a signed stainless steel pin buckle. In sum, this watch is the perfect entryway into Universal Genève for the budding collector — or an excellent addition to an established collection for the person who appreciates something just a little bit different.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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