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Tudor Submariner, 1995

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Tudor (maker)
Date
1995
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
Product 759231938647
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (product 759231938647)
Catalogue title (original)
Tudor Submariner (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number Product 759231938647), this is a wristwatch by Tudor, made in Switzerland, dated 1995. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Why We Love It We love Tudor here at Analog/Shift. From dress watches to alarm watches and everything in between, Tudor always has a place in our catalogs. Even their modern offerings, with their neo-vintage looks, feel right at home on our wrists. But for those of us who love the newer Tudors but want something a little, well, older , there’s the Tudor Submariner Reference 79090. Dating from 1995, this Reference 79090 is a true peach. Not only is it in excellent condition aesthetically, with crisp bevels, a creamy patina, and a Tudor-signed 9315 bracelet, but this beauty comes complete with inner and outer boxes, booklets, and stamped papers from Toronto dated October 7, 1995. Need we say more!? The Story Tudor first began offering the Submariner in the 1950s. In its earliest iterations, the Tudor Submariner was nearly identical to its Rolex compatriot, with black dials, Mercedes hands, and hour markers that alternated between long triangles at the poles and round plots everywhere else. However, it wasn’t long before the look of the Tudor Submariner began to shift and change. For nearly two decades, the Tudor “Snowflake” (Reference 7016) was the model that defined the Tudor Submariner, with its distinctive triangular hour markers and hands… but the Snowflake was not the be-all, end-all of Tudor Subs. With the 79090, Tudor returned the Submariner to its roots. The Mercedes hands returned, along with circular hour plots and elongated triangular hour markers at the Poles. As the last of the Tudor Subs, collectors are now turning to the Reference 79090 as what it is—a classic.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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