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Tissot Navigator World Time 18K YG (Ref. 4002-2) 'Cal 28.5N-21T', 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Tissot Navigator World Time 18K YG (Ref. 4002-2) 'Cal 28.5N-21T', 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Tissot (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
TSTNWT40022
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (TSTNWT40022)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Tissot Navigator World Time 18K YG (Ref. 4002-2) 'Cal 28.5N-21T' (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number TSTNWT40022), this is a wristwatch by Tissot, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

In 1853 Charles-Félicien Tissot founded Ch. Félicien Tissot & Fils in Le Locle, Switzerland, with his son Charles-Emile Tissot, a watchmaker. Tissot began as a comptoir d’établissage , which was a network of independent craftsmen who were highly specialized in producing a variety of watch parts, sold to be assembled by various watch companies and then retailed. Tissot’s initial specialty was a focus on luxurious pocket and pendant watches, mostly destined for the United States market. The brand eventually became one of the world’s most prominent official timekeepers for sports, and naturally offered a range of classic sports watches to bring that expertise to individual wrists. One such watch was the Navigator World Time, which came as the result of the rapid popularization of global air travel. It features the high-grade cal 28.5N-21T bumper movement, a rotating inner bezel with demarcations for many of the world's major cities, plus an outer bezel with hour markers for 1-12 as well as a complementary inner track with hour markers for 1-24. With all this at one's disposal, keeping track of what time it was just about anywhere in the world suddenly became a simple matter of a flick of the crown. It's especially interesting to note that this watch actually pre-dated the Rolex GMT Master—arguably the world's most recognizable dual-time wristwatch—by a full year, making this an even more impressive feat. And a gorgeous one at that, with its 18k gold case, shapely lugs, and two-tone dial. SPECS Stock # TSTNWT40022 Brand Tissot Style Navigator World Time Model 4002-2 Serial 40XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Gold / Silver 'World Time' Millimeters 36 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The 18k yellow gold case is in great vintage condition, showing honest signs of use with crisp chamfers, minimal signs of wear, and only light signs of previous polishing. The original outer bezel is beautiful, with some signs of wear commensurate with the age of the watch. The case retains its original unsigned crown and pump pusher, the latter of which shows some wear. The case back shows gentle wear, appropriate for its age. The watch is supplied on a two-piece leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The two-tone dial is gorgeous and in superb condition, showing patina on the inner dial with some nominal marks from age expected for the age of the watch. The outer 24-hour dial exhibits some light age as well. The gold hands are in great condition, having oxidized to a slightly darker gold tone over the years. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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