
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Sarcar Genève Watch, Brunei Emblem, 1990s. In 18k gold
- Maker / attribution
- Unrecorded in source
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- gold
- Dimensions
- 38 mm x 31 mm (excluding the crown)
- Auction house
- Invaluable auction listings
- Lot
- Lot 993BAD21BA
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: lot 36, 30th November - Fine Watches & Fountain Pens, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
- Catalogue title (original)
- SARCAR Genève Watch, Brunei Emblem, 1990s. In 18k gold. (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot 993BAD21BA), this is a wristwatch, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: 38 mm x 31 mm (excluding the crown). The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Lot description — Setdart Auction House
SARCAR Genève watch. Emblem of Brunei, 1990s. Extra-thin round 18K gold case with a smooth, rounded bezel and small, parallel central lugs. Fluted gold crown at the 4 o’clock position. 18K gold screw-down case back. Champagne-colored dial signed “SARCAR/GENEVE” with an asymmetrical, two-tone design and personalized with the rotating Brunei emblem; applied hour markers with small diamonds above and below, featuring Arabic numerals. Dauphine-style hands without a seconds hand. Flat mineral crystal. Original black leather strap with an 18k gold buckle. Swiss Eta 976.001 quartz movement. It works. Measurements: 38 mm x 31 mm (excluding the crown). In the watch descriptions, when a watch is listed as “it works,” it means the watch is functioning. Since collector’s watches typically have delicate and complex mechanisms, the buyer is responsible for any general servicing, inspection, battery replacement, adjustment, or repair that may be necessary.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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