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Rolex wristwatch, ref. 69178, Lady's Self-Winding, circa 1990-2000 — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex wristwatch, ref. 69178, Lady's Self-Winding, circa 1990-2000

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1990-2000
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
diameter 25.9 mm; length 160 mm. (approx.) mm
Lot
Lot 353-26
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 26, Monaco Auction
Catalogue title (original)
ROLEX REF. 69178, LADY'S, SELF-WINDING, CENTRE-SECONDS, DATE, (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 353-26), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1990-2000. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 25.9 mm; length 160 mm. (approx.) mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A very fine and rare, 18K yellow gold, self-winding, lady’s wristwatch, water-resistant with screwed case-back, silver “sunburst” colour dial with radial indexes and luminescent dots, centre-seconds and date of the month.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: "Datejust"; Reference: 69178; Movement No.: 303 734; Case No.: W 413 404; Material: 18K yellow gold; Bracelet: 18K yellow gold Rolex "Oyster" riveted bracelet with deployant clasp (dated T11); Caliber: 2135; Diameter: 25.9 mm; Length: 160 mm. (approx.); Weight: 72.8 gr. (approx.); Signature: dial, case and movement; Accessories: COSC bulletin, hang-tags

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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