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Rolex wristwatch, ref. 1601, Self-Winding Centre-Seconds, circa 1975 — view 1 of 3
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex wristwatch, ref. 1601, Self-Winding Centre-Seconds, circa 1975

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1975
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
diameter 36 mm; length 185 mm. (approx.) mm
Lot
Lot 356-42
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 42, Hong Kong,November 25-26, 2022
Catalogue title (original)
ROLEX REF. 1601, SELF-WINDING, CENTRE-SECONDS, DATE, GOLD “BUCKLEY” DIAL; “DATEJUST”; 18K YELLOW GOLD (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 356-42), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1975. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 36 mm; length 185 mm. (approx.) mm. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

18K yellow gold, self-winding, “tonneau”-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with screwed case-back, inclined fluted bezel, gold colour dial with radial revolving Roman numerals, so-called “John Buckley Dial” centre-seconds and one horological complication:· Instantaneous date of the month (aperture at 3 o’clock, under Cyclops lens)

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: “Oyster Perpetual” “Datejust” “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”; Reference: 1601; Movement No.: D 762 638; Case No.: 3 954 023; Material: 18K yellow gold; Bracelet: 18K yellow gold Rolex “Jubilee” bracelet with deployant clasp (end-links 53); Caliber: 1570; Diameter: 36 mm.; Length: 185 mm. (approx.); Weight: 113 gr. (approx.); Signature: dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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