
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16753 'Root Beer', Sunburst Brown 'Nipple' Dial
- Maker / attribution
- Rolex (maker)
- Date
- c. 1983
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- OC2738
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2738)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16753 'Root Beer' - Sunburst Brown 'Nipple' Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2738), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1983. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke
The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the most historic and iconic watches the brand ever produced. Its origin dates back to a commission request by Pan American World Airways in the early 50’s for their fleet of pilots who needed access to different time zones. These pieces would feature a similar design to another watch that Rolex was developing around that time, the Submariner, but would include a fourth hand running on 24-hr time, and a bi-colored bezel insert to represent AM/PM times. Those colors, naturally, would be the PanAm colors: Red & Blue. Thus, in 1953, the Ref. 6542 GMT-Master was born. These early pieces were ultimately, fragile arguably flawed in some ways, and were therefor succeeded by the updated Reference 1675 in 1959. This Reference introduced a larger case size with crown-guards and a bi-colored blue + red bezel insert made of aluminum. The Ref. 1675 underwent many small changes over its 21-year production run, with a slew of dial, bezel, bracelet, and hand variations. You know, Rolex stuff. And eventually, the 1675 would evolve into the 5-digit GMT-Master, one of which, we have here. These pieces, at a glance, retain the look and feel of a 1675, but now utilize a 'quickset' date function with the updated Calibre 3075 movement. The piece that we have here, a Ref. 16753, is a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold example known to collectors and enthusiasts as a 'Root Beer.' Dating to circa 1983, this example comes to us in excellent overall condition, with a thick and symmetrical Oyster case, an attractive dial inside, and its matching Jubilee bracelet. It shows normal signs of wear throughout with no damage or blemishes or note, and has been spared any previous polishing. The yellow gold bezel houses a brown insert, which is wonderfully preserved in excellent condition. Brown in color, the dial inside features a captivating sunburst finishing, rather than matte finishing like its predecessors. It carries over the applied 'nipple' indices, which exhibit a rich and even patina, with a handset to match. Once more, the Jubilee bracelet is a correct '50' unit made specifically for this reference. Overlooked for many years, these 5-digit Professional models carry over virtually everything that collectors love about its predecessor, but have that added functionality of a quickset date. And though not quite as old as their predecessors, these are becoming very difficult to find in honest condition like the example that we have here.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Military, pilot and travel watches
The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.
In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.
What to look for
- Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
- High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
- 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
- Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
- Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
- GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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