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Pocket watch and chain by Estienne Hubert — view 1 of 2
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch and chain

Pocket watch and chain by Estienne Hubert

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Estienne Hubert (maker)
Date
c. 1650
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch and chain
Materials / technique
metal: steel; metal: silver
Dimensions
Overall: 245 x 45 x 25 mm
Holding institution
Royal Museums Greenwich
Accession / object no.
ZAA0505
Credit line
National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, Foulkes Collection
Catalogue title (original)
Pocket watch and chain (English)

View the source record ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Royal Museums Greenwich (object number ZAA0505), this is a pocket watch and chain by Estienne Hubert, dated c. 1650. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: metal: steel; metal: silver. Recorded dimensions: Overall: 245 x 45 x 25 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Catalogue description — Royal Museums Greenwich

Pocket watch in a silver case with hinged lid and cut steel chain with two steel seal fobs and a key. Full-plate movement, verge escapement, screwed balance-cock. Tangent screw set-up on back plate. Catgut fusee. Silver dial with engraved centre depicting town and bridge on river. Dial pinned to pillar plate which is engraved on outer edge. Steel hour hand.

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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