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Pearl Set Gold and Enamel Cylinder with Chatelaine, circa 1780 — view 1 of 5
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Pearl Set Gold and Enamel Cylinder with Chatelaine, circa 1780

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
c. 1780
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold, enamel
Stock no.
A11017
Credit line
Dealer listing, Pieces of Time (A11017)
Catalogue title (original)
Pearl Set Gold and Enamel Cylinder with Chatelaine (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Pieces of Time (dealer), London (stock number A11017), this is a pocket watch, dated c. 1780. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, enamel. The record is illustrated with 5 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Pieces of Time

A late 18 th Century English cylinder in a fine pearl and diamond set gold and enamel case with matching chatelaine. Full plate fusee movement with gilt dust ring. Pierced and engraved round cock, steel regulator on top plate below the plain three arm steel balance. Polished steel cylinder, large brass escape wheel. Winding through the white enamel dial with radially set Arabic numerals, gold arrow hands. Fine gold consular case set with diamonds and pearls. The translucent dark blue enamel bezels bordered by a narrow white enamel band are both set with a single row of large split pearls. The back covered with translucent dark blue enamel over an engine turned ground, applied white metal decoration set with diamonds. In the centre a large diameter diamond bordered by large split pearls. Gold and enamel oval pendant with button to open the sprung front bezel. Fine matching chatelaine, the gilt clip supporting an oval gold and enamel cartouche with a small swag set with diamond chips. A central chain of two gold and enamel rectangular cartouches is flanked by two chains of pearls which support an octagonal cartouche. This gold and enamel cartouche is centred by a small lock of plaited hair withing a border set with diamond chips. The watch is supported by a short chain of two diamond set gold and enamel links terminating in a gold spring clip with threaded safety collar. Four further chains of pearls attach two gold and enamel bells with tassels of pearls with gold cones, a gold and enamel seal and matching key. Later glazed red morocco covered presentation case lined with gray velvet, folding easel stand.

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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