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Patek Philippe Nautilus "Jumbo" (Ref. 3700/1J) 18K YG, 1980 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Nautilus "Jumbo" (Ref. 3700/1J) 18K YG, 1980

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1980
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 16 mm
Stock no.
PPN37003
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PPN37003)
Catalogue title (original)
1980 Patek Philippe Nautilus "Jumbo" (Ref. 3700/1J) 18K YG W/ Extract From The Archive (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PPN37003), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1980. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 16 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The ref. 3700 Nautilus shares a few design cues from its older brother the Royal Oak, albeit the Nautilus is the more refined of the two, but namely the integrated bracelet and geometric bezel designs. The two watches also share the same movement based on the Jaegar-LeCoultre cal. 920 (cal. 28-255C in the Nautilus). This movement was the perfect operating base for the Nautilus and Royal Oak as it allowed the watches to be extremely thin while maintaining a self-winding mechanism. Genta designed the Nautilus in 1974 on a napkin while observing a group of Patek executives out for dinner during the Basel Trade Fair, he has been noted saying the sketch only took him 5 minutes to complete. The quick sketch must have been impressive because from that day forth the Patek Philippe Nautilus icon was born. It is a common belief among collectors that there was only about 1500 yellow gold Nautilus ref. 3700’s produced during its 14 years of production across all variations, including those with diamonds. Making any yellow gold Nautilus extremely exclusive and sought after. Stock # PPN37003 Brand Patek Philippe Style Nautilus Model 3700/1J Serial 130XXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Blue Millimeters 42 Bracelet Patek 18K YG Integrated Bracelet W/ Deployant Clasp CASE & BRACELET The 18k yellow gold case is remarkably well preserved and believed to remain unpolished, displaying all of the watch's signature angles and finishes while exhibiting minimal signs of use. The octangular bezel is in exceptional condition and has achieved a slight rosy patina from age. The unsigned yellow gold crown remains original. The crystal is a service replacement as well, most likely changed at the same time as the crown. The first series integrated 18k yellow gold bracelet tapers to 16mm at the clasp and retains all of its original links showing absolutely no stretch. DIAL & HANDS The original and stunning Mk. III (bis) "dot" dial is a beautiful feat of design and does not display the aging that is common with early 3700s. The gold markers are all in perfect condition, the tritium within the markers has achieved a gorgeous creamy coloration and exhibits no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original gold hands are in superb condition and retain their original tritium which matches the lume plots on the dial perfectly, under U.V. light inspection the hands exhibit no degradation. ACCESSORIES The watch comes with a Patek Philippe Extract From The Archives. The watch is keeping time and functioning perfectly, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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