
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Ellipse, 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 32 mm
- Stock no.
- 40930278
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40930278)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Patek Philippe Ellipse (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40930278), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 32 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Analog/Shift
In 1968, Patek Philippe released the Golden Ellipse. Debuting eight years before the iconic Nautilus, the Ellipse—with its distinctive oval shape—was unlike anything else in Patek Philippe’s catalogs. In period, the Ellipse line became emblematic of the era for design and signaled an elevated level of taste, particularly given the popularity of function-first tool watches that defined the 1960s for many. In the intervening years, the Ellipse and many of its contemporaries fell out of favor with collectors who favored purpose built steel chronographs and divers that were closely associated with tales of adventure and exploration. Many of these wonderful, design-forward timepieces were lost in the recesses of vaults or sock drawers - or worse - melted down for their gold value. Only recently have we seen the start of an evolution in the mindset of contemporary collectors - a groundswell of appreciation for more artistic expressions of timekeeping is occurring at this very moment, and forgotten gems of the 70s and 80s are once again being discovered and appreciated for the works of horological art they truly are. This particular example, a Reference 3738J, dates to the 1980s and f eatures a 32mm solid 18k yellow gold case with a fantastic, integrated 18k yellow gold multi-link 'rice bead' style bracelet with a signed locking clasp, a stunning sunburst blue 'sigma' dial with applied yellow gold indices and a matching pencil handset, and Patek's ultra-thin Calibre 240 automatic winding movement. Absolutely fantastic. Watches such as this one are delightful timepieces that stand out brilliantly in a room full of steel sports watches, once again signaling an elevated understanding of what watchmaking can - and perhaps should - be. *Due to the design of this bracelet, sizing alterations may require custom work. Lead time after measurements are established is 4-6 weeks.*
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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