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Patek Philippe Calatrava Platinum Cream Dial (Ref. 3998P), 1993 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Calatrava Platinum Cream Dial (Ref. 3998P), 1993

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1993
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
platinum
Dimensions
Case 33 mm
Stock no.
Product 8545246642359
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8545246642359)
Catalogue title (original)
1993 Patek Philippe Calatrava Platinum Cream Dial (Ref. 3998P) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8545246642359), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1993. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: platinum. Recorded dimensions: Case 33 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance The reference 3998 sits in that late neo-vintage period where Patek Philippe was refining the Calatrava into something slightly more contemporary without losing its core identity. It keeps the proportions and restraint the line is known for, but introduces a date complication and a slightly larger case that makes it far more usable today. What makes this example different is the metal and configuration. Platinum Calatravas from this era are already produced in far smaller numbers compared to yellow or rose gold counterparts. Pair that with diamond markers and you get a watch that feels far more considered than it might appear at first glance. It is not loud, but it is definitely not standard either. The dial layout is clean and balanced, with applied markers alternating between diamonds and batons, and a framed date at 3 that doesn’t disrupt the overall symmetry. It is a good example of how Patek handled adding functionality without losing the design language that made the Calatrava important in the first place. Writer’s Thoughts The platinum case has that weight you notice immediately, but it is still thin and sits flat the way a Calatrava should. The diamonds are done right, too. They don’t jump out, they just catch light when they need to. The original strap and platinum buckle matter here more than usual. Platinum Patek Philippe buckles are rare enough to source on their own. This is usually not someone's first Calatrava. It is the one they circle back to once it's time for something a little more unique. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Calatrava (Ref. 3998P) Year: circa 1990s Case Material: Platinum Case Size: 33mm Dial: Silver dial with diamond hour markers and applied batons Movement: Automatic Patek Philippe caliber Strap/Bracelet: Original leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Original platinum tang buckle Contents: Extract from the Archives Condition Case: Case shows light wear consistent with use, strong overall, with clean lines and defined lugs. Dial: Original dial in excellent condition with a clean surface and well-preserved markers. Hands: Hands are clean and appropriate to the watch. Crystal: Crystal shows minimal signs of wear. Strap/Bracelet: Original strap with light wear present.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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