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Patek Philippe Calatrava 3992J Automatic, circa 1990 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3992J Automatic, circa 1990

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
c. 1990
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k Yellow Gold
Stock no.
CUR572
Credit line
Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR572)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3992J Automatic (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR572), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k Yellow Gold. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge

Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3992J in 18k solid yellow gold, circa 1990. This classic model features a white Roman numeral dial, Clous de Paris “Hobnail” bezel and automatic calibre 240 microtor movement.

Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge

Metal: 18k Yellow Gold; Movement: Automatic, Cal. 240; Bracelet/strap: Patek Philippe Leather Strap & Yellow Gold Pin Buckle

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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