
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K PG (Ref. 5000R) Pink "Tiffany & Co." Dial, 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Patek Philippe (maker)
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- PPC5000RTIF
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (PPC5000RTIF)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1990s Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K PG (Ref. 5000R) Pink "Tiffany & Co." Dial W/ Box & Papers (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number PPC5000RTIF), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
'You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.’ — Patek Philippe started this now ubiquitous marketing campaign in 1966 and never looked back, though they already had an outstanding legacy since the watchmaker was founded in the year 1839. Patek built its reputation on several foundational pillars: tradition, innovation, and excellence, all of which are paramount in every timepiece they make, both old and new. If it weren't for the Nautilus or Grand Complications series, Patek Philippe would undoubtedly be best known for the Calatrava. The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the truest representation of the classic dress watch, and was first introduced to the world in 1932 with the model reference 92. The sleek, round cases of the Calatrava often feature extremely simple, yet perfectly executed designs with elegant dials that lack all unnecessary obstructions. A true "must-have" for any Patek collector or dress watch aficionado. While there are nearly countless options and iterations of Patek's classic dress watch line, we love the Calatrava ref. 5000R for its modern take on the classic platform. The limited edition model was produced in a run of 5000 pieces, only 500 of which were created in white gold. It is also believed that the ref. 5000R was created in collaboration with Ferrari to create a watch with a dial that emulates the design of the dials used in vintage Ferrari dashboard gauges, which is why this Calatrava has a deep contrast and unique utilitarian styling to the dial. While Patek Philippe has produced countless variations of its iconic Calatrava, the ref. 5000R stands out for its contemporary interpretation of the classic dress watch. Produced in a limited run of approximately 1,700–2,000 examples, with only 100-250 cased in rose gold. The model is perhaps best known for its rumored, though never officially confirmed, connection to Ferrari, as many examples feature a black sector-style dial believed to have been inspired by the instrumentation found in vintage Ferrari dashboard gauges. However, the reference was offered with several dial color configurations, including this exceptionally desirable pink-on-pink execution. Beyond its extremely limited production, the true appeal of the ref. 5000R lies in its coveted "pink-on-pink" configuration, a warm rose gold case paired with a matching pink dial. Pink-on-pink Patek Philippe references have long been among the most sought-after executions in the brand's history, tracing their desirability back to rare vintage Calatravas and perpetual calendars. Their combination of rarity, warmth, and understated elegance has made them enduring favorites among collectors, with that appreciation naturally carrying into Patek's neo-vintage era. The ref. 5000R perfectly captures that legacy, offering one of the most refined and visually harmonious executions of the neo-vintage Calatrava. Few partnerships in watchmaking carry the prestige of Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. Their relationship, which dates back to 1851, unites two of the most storied names in Swiss horology and American luxury. Patek timepieces bearing the Tiffany & Co. signature are highly coveted, representing not only exceptional craftsmanship but also the exclusivity of dual branding from two global icons. This co-signature elevates collectability, as well as value, as collectors recognize both its rarity and the enduring heritage behind the collaboration. SPECS Stock # PPC5000RTIF Brand Patek Philippe Style Calatrava Model 5000R Serial 31XXXXX / 40XXXXX Size Men's Material 18K Pink Gold Dial Pink "Tiffany & Co." Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Patek Philippe Black Alligator Strap W/ 18K PG Patek Philippe Deployant Clasp CASE & BRACELET The classical and charming 18K pink gold case is exceptionally well-preserved, showing minimal signs of use and strong geometry and dimensions throughout, with no obvious signs of previous polishing present. The case retains its original crown featuring the Calatrava cross. The sapphire case back is in excellent condition and beautifully displays the Cal. 240ps movement and 22K yellow gold micro-rotor. The original Patek Philippe black alligator leather strap with 18K pink gold delpoyant buckle is in great condition, showing minimal signs of previous wear. DIAL & HANDS The original and beautiful pink sunburst "Tiffany & Co." dial with contrasting black numerals is as sophisticated as it is functional in design. The dial remains in perfect condition, displaying no damage or age whatsoever. The running seconds hand located at 4 o'clock introduces a welcome touch of asymmetry to the dial. The black feuille hands are all original and are in flawless condition. ACCESSORIES The watch comes complete with its original inner and outer boxes, Patek Philippe document holder, booklets, and Certificate of Origin signed "Tiffany & Co.". The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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