Skip to content

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Patek Philippe Aquanaut, 1999

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
1999
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 38 mm
Stock no.
40930326
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40930326)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Aquanaut (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40930326), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated 1999. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 38 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The Aquanaut may be one of the most important modern luxury sport watches on the market. The Reference 5060J, launched in 1996 for the 20th anniversary of the Nautilus, was a kind of transitional watch. The case borrowed features from the Nautilus but did away with the case “ears” and adding visible lugs, this short-run yellow gold model provided the basis for the Reference 5060A - the first steel model - in 1997, which was also the first time the Aquanaut name was used. This model would go on to form the basis of a full collection of luxury sports watches that provide the entry point into the Patek Philippe catalog to this day. This early example, a Reference 5065A-1A, dates to 1999 and features a 38mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, an anthracite textured hobnail dial with tritium indices and handset that have patinated beautifully to a light creamy 'pumpki'n hue. Powered by Patek's Calibre 315 SC automatic movement with date function at 3 o’clock, it comes outfitted with its uncommonly-seen rare multi-link stainless steel bracelet with a signed hidden deployant clasp. It will also include a genuine Patek Philippe rubber strap with steel deployant buckle (not pictured), if you've gotta wear it the way they are most commonly seen! This piece remains in excellent condition throughout and offers a svelte alternative to its younger, larger siblings from subsequent iterations. If you’ve been on the hunt for a luxury sports watch that offers brand pedigree, a design that will surely last for generations, a smidge of patina and you have an affinity for steel bracelets, then look no further. You've found the perfect neo-vintage Aquanaut!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records