Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 'Tiffany & Co.', 2020

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The inaugural Reference 5035 Annual Calendar of 1996 was a tremendous success, and ever since, Patek’s Annual Calendars have been a popular favorite. Annual Calendars from Patek represent the bread and butter of the brand— perfectly executed complicated dress watches. In 2006, Patek Philippe released the Reference 5960P, a platinum annual calendar coupled with a flyback chronograph. Distinguished from the other annual calendars because of its decidedly sporty look, the 5960 stood out from the crowd. It wasn’t only noteworthy for the flyback, however, it also featured a modern annual calendar layout. Instead of displaying the annual calendar in subsidiary dials, Patek instead used aperture displays. While apertures have been used by Patek throughout history (take the Reference 3448 perpetual calendar, for example), usually, the apertures are displayed in-line. For the 5960, Patek instead made vaulted, framed apertures that follow the curve of the case. This made for a really modern take on the annual calendar and breathed new life into the collection. It’s not for everyone, but it’s a completely new look. This particular Reference 5960/01G-001 is executed in white gold, with a deep blue Tiffany-stamped dial and red accents for the chronograph hand and counters. The calendar complications and power reserve sit at the top of the dial, while the minute and hour totalizers are placed at 6 o’clock within a single oversized sub-register. A day/night indicator is easy to miss within the subdial. The case is topped with a sapphire crystal. A number of other stylistic choices were made with the 5960 that separated it from previous references. Unlike the 5035 and 5146 annual calendars, the 5960 has a concave bezel that helps reinforce the modern look of this piece. Additionally, the 5960 was sized at a comfortable 40.5mm— a sporty sizing for a Patek complication, but one that suits the rest of the look of the watch. The 5960 is finished with a signed crown and engraved pump pushers. Dating to 2020, this example is presented with its inner and outer boxes, papers, and certificate of origin. The aesthetics of this piece are classic and modern all at the same time. The 5960 is one of the most beloved modern Patek references, and one of the greatest places to start with complicated Patek Philippe if you’re a sports watch fan. Rip off the bandaid with the 5960 and then go full send on a 3940. You’ll thank us later.