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Movado Super Sub Sea Chronograph (Ref. 206-704-501), 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Movado Super Sub Sea Chronograph (Ref. 206-704-501), 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Movado (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
MOVSSS206704501
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (MOVSSS206704501)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Movado Super Sub Sea Chronograph (Ref. 206-704-501) (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number MOVSSS206704501), this is a wristwatch by Movado, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Although Movado today is probably best associated with the Bauhaus-inspired "Museum Watch" (the one with the plain dial and a big dot at 12 o'clock), the brand has been producing watches since the late 1800s and was at one time the beloved sister brand to Zenith. Over the years, they've produced everything from simple, beautiful dress and field watches to incredible tool watches, including the 1960s-era Super Sub Sea models, which put a chronograph in a waterproof case with a rotating dive bezel. Super Sub Sea models like this one are the most sought-after in the vintage Movado dive watch line-up. It features the impressive 17-jewel Zenith 146-HP movement, which is also used in a variety of other chronographs from this era, and was the last manual wind movement caliber by Zenith-Movado before the introduction of the automatic El Primero movement. This particular model is in incredible condition, from the crisp lines to the rich bezel, the flawless dial to the super cool Zenith-signed ladder-style bracelet. It's one of those under-the-radar pieces that really deserves its time in the spotlight. SPECS Stock # MOVSSS206704501 Brand Movado Style Diving Chronograph Model 206-704-501 Serial 7XX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 40.5 Bracelet Zenith / Gay-Freres 'Ladder-Link' Diving Bracelet W/ MB End Pieces CASE & BRACELET The case is in exceptional condition, exhibiting honest signs of use with the original chamfers and dimensions fully present. It features its original Movado-signed crown and dual pump pushers. The case back shows signs of wear commensurate with the watch's age, but the factory markings and medallion are still crisp and legible. The bezel is remarkably well-preserved and has taken on a stunning charcoal gray coloration, doesn't show any scratching or blemishing, and retains its original tritium pearl. The watch is supplied on its extremely rare and potentially original Zenith-signed Gay-Freres ladder-link diving bracelet with MB end pieces, which remains in wonderful condition showing very minimal stretch with 12 links that will fit up to an 8-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The striking "Reverse Panda" dial remains in virtually perfect original condition showing no blemishing or imperfections. The tritium lume on the dial and within the original dauphine-style hands shows no visible degradation when viewed under UV light and have taken on a wonderful matching golden-yellow patina. The hands within the sub-dials have been blued, and are in equally excellent condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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