Moritz Grossman X Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Grail Watch ‘Silver Bullet’ MG-003588, 2023

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

In a world where independent watchmaking has become increasingly celebrated, I still feel there are a handful of brands that remain criminally overlooked. Moritz Grossmann is certainly one of them. Based in Glashütte and revived in 2008 by watchmaker Christine Hutter, the brand has quietly built some of the finest watches coming out of Germany, combining traditional Saxon watchmaking with a level of hand finishing that can comfortably stand alongside the very best. The watch we have here is the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’, released in 2023 as Grail Watch 9 and limited to an exceptionally small run of just six pieces. Founded by Revolution and The Rake's Wei Koh, Grail Watch was created to collaborate directly with some of the world's most interesting watchmakers and brands to produce small, highly considered editions specifically for collectors. Previous projects have involved names such as Ressence, Franck Muller, and Ludovic Ballouard, with the Silver Bullet bringing Moritz Grossmann and Kari Voutilainen into the mix. Based on the wonderfully proportioned Benu 37, it combines an 18-carat white gold case with Grossmann's signature purpled hands and an incredible hand-guilloché dial produced by Voutilainen's dial manufacture, Comblémine. The addition of a Voutilainen-made dial is certainly a major plus, but as we will get into later, there is already an enormous amount to appreciate about the watch beneath it. Measuring just 37mm, the proportions are wonderfully restrained and classical. At only 9.4mm thick, it sits beautifully on the wrist, while the long, individually fabricated and hand-welded lugs give what is otherwise a relatively simple round case plenty of character. It feels like a dress watch from another era, but with the quality and refinement of something thoroughly modern. The dial is undoubtedly one of the highlights. Made from German silver and subsequently silvered, it is painstakingly engine-turned using vintage guilloché machines at Voutilainen's Comblémine dial manufacture. Several different patterns are used across its surface, with a beautiful radiating pattern dominating the centre, surrounded by a contrasting Clous de Paris pattern that is repeated within the deeply recessed small seconds register. Despite being almost entirely monochromatic, the different textures constantly play with the light and give the dial an incredible amount of depth. Adding contrast are the applied white gold Arabic numerals and hour markers, together with Moritz Grossmann's wonderfully delicate hands. Rather than the conventional heat-blued finish, the hands are flame-treated to achieve the brand's signature brown-purple hue. Depending on the light, they can appear deep violet, burgundy, or almost black, and against the silver dial the effect is stunning. The same treatment is carried through to the movement screws, creating a subtle connection between the front and back of the watch. Speaking of the movement, turning the watch over reveals what I think is one of the best-kept secrets in modern watchmaking. The manual-winding Cal. 102.1 is constructed around a traditional three-fifths plate made from untreated German silver, with broad Glashütte stripes, gold chatons, clear sapphire jewels, and extensive hand finishing throughout. The balance and escape wheel cocks are beautifully engraved by hand, while even details most would never notice, such as the teeth and inner spokes of the wheels, receive an extraordinary level of finishing. I particularly love how traditional the movement feels. There is no attempt to make it look overly contemporary or complicated. Instead, everything is rooted in old-school Glashütte watchmaking, from the German silver construction and screwed chatons to the hand engraving and purpled screws. Yet the closer you look, the more impressive it becomes. Offering a 48-hour power reserve and beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the Cal. 102.1 is technically straightforward, but executed to an exceptional level. For me, this is where Moritz Grossmann really deserves more recognition. There are very few brands producing watches today with this level of attention to detail, particularly when it comes to the movement. The finishing is spectacular, the construction is deeply traditional, and even something as seemingly simple as the hands is treated as an opportunity for craftsmanship. Add to that a hand-guilloché dial produced by Kari Voutilainen, and the Silver Bullet becomes an especially compelling expression of what the brand is capable of. Most importantly, only six examples were ever made. At a time when the word ‘limited’ is thrown around rather loosely, six watches is genuinely rare. With its classical 37mm proportions, incredible movement, beautiful guilloché dial, and those unmistakable purpled hands and screws, the Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ is an exceptionally complete watch and, in my opinion, a wonderful example of just how overlooked Moritz Grossmann still is.