Longines Gold Plated Sub Seconds Dress Watch, ref. 6417-1, circa 1953

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A beautifully proportioned 1950s Longines dress watch, Reference 6417-1, with a gold-plated case, mixed-marker dial and subsidiary seconds. By the early 1950s, Longines had established an enviable reputation for producing refined mechanical watches that combined elegant Swiss design with accomplished in-house movements. Dress watches from this period were typically slim, restrained and beautifully proportioned, reflecting the move away from the more utilitarian styling of the wartime years. Hand-wound watches with subsidiary seconds remained an important part of the Longines catalogue, and surviving examples offer a particularly attractive snapshot of the brand's post-war watchmaking. What's on Offer We are delighted to offer for sale this handsome Longines gold-plated dress watch, reference 6417-1, dating from approximately 1953. At 35.5mm across, this is a generously proportioned watch for its period and has a beautifully balanced appearance. The gold-plated case features a narrow polished bezel and elegantly shaped, gently downturned lugs, giving the watch a refined profile on the wrist. The white dial is particularly attractive, combining stylised Arabic numerals at the even hours with applied gold baton markers between them. A fine outer minute track completes the layout, while the Longines name and winged hourglass emblem sit neatly beneath 12 o'clock. Gold sword hands provide a clean and suitably understated pairing with the dial. At 6 o'clock sits a recessed subsidiary seconds dial with a fine track and slender gold seconds hand, completing the classic mid-century arrangement. The dial shows gentle ageing appropriate to a watch now more than 70 years old but remains attractive and highly legible. The combination of the warm gold case, lightly aged white dial and gold furniture gives the watch considerable vintage character without losing the restrained elegance expected of a Longines dress watch from this period. Inside is the manually wound Longines Calibre 12.68Z, a 17-jewel mechanical movement. The movement details supplied with the watch support its dating to approximately 1953. The watch is paired with a dark brown leather strap, which complements the warm tones of the gold-plated case particularly well. The case displays surface wear and marks commensurate with age, while the dial shows gentle signs of ageing. It remains a very attractive example of a classic 1950s Longines dress watch.