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Kobold Professional B Pilot's Watch, c. late 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Kobold (maker)
Date
c. late 1990s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 37.5 mm
Stock no.
40990311
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40990311)
Catalogue title (original)
Kobold Professional B Pilot's Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40990311), this is a wristwatch by Kobold, dated c. late 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 37.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Why would one buy a pilot’s watch if one’s not a pilot, you might ask? Pilot’s watches are renowned for their utility — legible, practical, rugged and handsome, they’re beloved by many who have never (and likely will never) actually sit behind the controls of an aircraft. Available in numerous configurations and designs, they’re a significant entry in the history of the “tool watch” and have only become more important and collectible in recent years. Kobold, an American company founded by a German in Pennsylvania in the late 1990s, makes some of the best tool watches in the world. From divers to chronographs to GMTs to pilot’s watches, their often-oversized wares are beloved for their tactical bent and extreme ruggedness. One of their original models, the Professional B Chronograph, is a particular favorite of collectors, and an awesome, under-the-radar pilot’s watch. This particular Professional B Chronograph ref. 351-65, dating from circa the late 1990s to the early 2000s, features a 37.5mm stainless steel screw-back case, round chronograph pushers, a black dial with rare italic Arabic typeface, a quickset date window at 3 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and tritium luminous material on the indices and matching pencil handset. It’s powered by the handwound Valjoux 7760 chronograph movement, giving it a true vintage feel, and fitted to a black leather strap. Handsome, well-proportioned, unique, and featuring an untouched case in excellent condition that shows only small signs of wear, this is a true pilot’s watch through and through — though in this case, a wildly affordable one considering it’s pedigree. Take this one for a spin!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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