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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club, Orlebar Brown Edition, ref. IW390704, 2020 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club, Orlebar Brown Edition, ref. IW390704, 2020

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
IWC (maker)
Date
2020
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 44 mm
Stock no.
VWS3121cs
Credit line
Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (VWS3121cs)
Catalogue title (original)
IWC - Portugieser Yacht Club - Orlebar Brown Edition - Model Ref: IW390704 - 2020 - Box & Papers (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number VWS3121cs), this is a wristwatch by IWC, made in Switzerland, dated 2020. The Atlas places it in the Contemporary Horology period (2010 – Present) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 44 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

A Very Handsome IWC Portugieser Yacht Club 'Orlebar Brown' Edition Watch in Almost New Condition, Offered For Sale with its Original Box and Papers, 2020 The IWC Portugieser, a hallmark of sophistication and precision in watchmaking, has an illustrious history that traces back to the late 1930s. Initially conceived at the request of two Portuguese businessmen seeking precise marine chronometer wristwatches, its genesis led to the creation of a timepiece that combined navigational instrument accuracy with elegant design. The first model, the Reference 325, introduced in 1939, was powered by a pocket watch movement, embodying both the accuracy sought by its patrons and a distinctive style characterized by a large dial and Arabic numerals. Over the decades, the Portugieser has evolved while preserving its core identity. The introduction of notable complications such as chronographs, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters has cemented its status as a technical marvel. The IWC Portugieser collection remains emblematic of IWC Schaffhausen's commitment to innovation and excellence in craftsmanship. It represents not just a nod to maritime history but also an enduring legacy in luxury watchmaking. What's on Offer This IWC Portugieser Yacht Club is an Orlebar Brown Edition, a collaboration with the clothing brand that took place in 2020. Crafted from stainless steel with a marine-blue dial, rhodium-plated hands, red chronograph seconds hand, elegantly-proportioned case and a co-branded side-fastener deployment strap, the nautical chronograph, which is water-resistant up to 6 bar is in superb condition - almost mint, and offered for sale with its original 2020 box and papers. The blemish-free dial is encapsulated underneath Sapphire crystal and at 44mm is fairly meaty on the wrist, however, it is surprisingly comfortable. The IWC-manufactured calibre 89361 with flyback function displays the measured hours and minutes together on a subdial at 12 o’clock and has a power reserve of 68 hours. This watch is in superb preowned condition with no visible signs of wear, we would say it is almost mint condition, this is head-turning watch with bags of charisma which any discerning watch lover would be overjoyed to have in their collection.

Historical context

Contemporary Horology (2010 – Present)

Silicon components, connected watches, optical-lattice research clocks and a thriving independent scene.

Smartwatches became the world's best-selling watches, while mechanical watchmaking focuses on craft, innovation (silicon components, new escapements) and independent makers.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Mechanical Renaissance

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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