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IWC 18K Dress Watch, early 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
IWC (maker)
Date
early 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 35 mm
Stock no.
Product 1221147137
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (product 1221147137)
Catalogue title (original)
IWC 18K Dress Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number Product 1221147137), this is a wristwatch by IWC, made in Switzerland, dated early 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 35 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Simple. Refined. Understated. When choosing a good dress watch, one should be conscious of it's role: A dress watch should not leap from the wrist, declaring its presence to onlookers. It should be a subtle companion that accents the wearer and his outfit. Ideally a precious metal, a dress watch should also be simple and clean, without the noise of chronograph or other functions. While the International Watch Company is often associated with their lovely Portuguese chronographs, sturdy Aquatimer divers, Big Pilot aviators, or their 70's inspired Ingenieur SLs, it has also been a longstanding manufacture of some of the most beautiful and simple dress watches. With a simple, circular 18K yellow gold case, this IWC Schaffhausen is pretty much the perfect dress watch. As with many of IWC's watches, the true beauty of the timepiece is on the inside. In this case, the 21-jewel Calibre 8531 automatic movement is a true workhorse (a movement that made it's way inside many of the IWC Ingenieurs of the era) weighing in at just under 9mm in thickness, making this an extremely comfortable and versatile wear. This particular watch dates to the early 1960s and is in remarkable original condition. The 35mm 18K solid yellow gold case is in very good condition and is perfectly accented by the clean silver non-luminous dial and gold sword hands. Paired with a Horween Shell Cordovan strap with matching gold hardware, this IWC is ready for formal wear. And, with the added benefit of a date function, this piece would make an extraordinary everyday dress or business piece. Whatever the use, there is no denying that this IWC's classic stylings and robust movement make it a lovely and desirable piece.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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