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Hermès Kelly watch, 1996 — view 1 of 4
View 1 of 4 · Image: Setdart Auction House / Invaluable · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Hermès Kelly watch, 1996

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1996
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Lot
Lot EA2E9F89B5
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 333, 20th November - Handbags & Accessories, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
Catalogue title (original)
HERMÈS. Kelly Watch, 1996. (English)

Editor's note

Title rewritten in English from the auction house's own lot title (Dutch, German or run into the description); facts unchanged.

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot EA2E9F89B5), this is a wristwatch, dated 1996. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Setdart Auction House

Gold-tone metal case shaped like the iconic Hermès padlock, with a white rectangular dial, two hands, and a side crown. Original single-wrap bracelet in green Courchevel leather, with a buckle clasp. Features a “Z” date stamp inside a circle, corresponding to 1996. In excellent condition, with slight signs of wear. Measurements: 18.5 cm (strap); 2 x 2 cm (case). Launched in 1975, the Kelly Watch is one of Hermès’s most distinctive watch designs, inspired by the characteristic padlock of the iconic Kelly bag. Its original construction transforms this clasp into a small watch case suspended from the leather strap, thus combining jewelry, watchmaking, and leather goods. This 1996 version stands out for its combination of green Courchevel leather with the gold-tone finish of the clasp, preserving the elegant and functional aesthetic that made the model a classic of the French fashion house

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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