
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Hermès Caleche Tank Manual Wind, 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Hermes (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 24 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 8653446480055
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8653446480055)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1980s Hermès Caleche Tank Manual Wind (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8653446480055), this is a wristwatch by Hermes, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 24 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
History and Significance Hermès has always approached watchmaking through the lens of design rather than complication. While many collectors immediately associate the brand with leather craftsmanship, its vintage watches quietly demonstrate an ability to produce elegant, thoughtfully proportioned timepieces that feel entirely distinct from anything else on the market. The Caleche Tank is a fascinating example because it manages to feel both familiar and unexpected at the same time. Its industrial steel case departs from the softer shapes often associated with Hermès, yet the minimalist dial, classic typography, and iconic horse and carriage logo immediately remind you which maison created it. The result is a watch that feels restrained, refined, and unmistakably French. Vintage Hermès watches remain one of the more overlooked corners of collecting. As enthusiasts continue exploring beyond the traditional Swiss houses, references like the Caleche have become increasingly appreciated for their originality, elegant proportions, and undeniable charm. Writer’s Thoughts The Hermès Caleche Tank is unlike almost anything else the brand has produced. The industrial steel case gives it a stronger presence than you might expect, while the black sunburst dial and classic carriage motif keep it unmistakably Hermès. It's simple, beautifully proportioned, and refreshingly different from the dress watches most collectors are used to seeing. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Hermès Model: Caleche Tank Year: Circa 1980s Case Material: Stainless steel Case Size: 24mm x 33mm Dial: Black sunburst Movement: Manual wind Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap Buckle/Clasp: Generic pin buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: The stainless steel case remains in excellent overall condition with crisp edges and light signs of wear consistent with age. Dial: The original black sunburst dial retains rich coloration with light age visible upon close inspection and some hand drag. Hands: The original hands remain in excellent condition with clean surfaces and no notable oxidation. Crystal: Clean overall with only light signs of wear consistent with age. Strap/Bracelet: The leather strap remains in very nice overall condition and complements the watch well. Buckle/Clasp: Generic pin buckle in excellent overall condition.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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