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Helbros Automatic Skin Diver, 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Helbros Automatic Skin Diver, 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 37 mm
Stock no.
HLBOSKDVR
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (HLBOSKDVR)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Helbros Automatic Skin Diver (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number HLBOSKDVR), this is a wristwatch, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 37 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Helbros is one of those watch companies with a complicated history, one that is hard to get the full picture of or a full grasp on. The Helbros Watch Co started out as a US-based brand out of the Chicago area, and while they created a number of watches their own watches, they are most well known for being a white-label assembler and reseller of European watches. Many Helbros watches came from Switzerland, however, examples can be found with parts assembled from Germany and France as well. The Helbros seemed to have changed hands a few times, once being owned for a brief stint by Elgin in the 60s, though the name is now owned under Jules Jurgensen who acquired the name when they transitioned their operations from Switzerland to the United States. Regardless of the brand's complicated history, what we have here is a beautiful skin-diver style watch with a rotating bezel and a Zodiac-meets-Omega vibe. It's imminently wearable with its 37mm case, plus it'll give you something to nerd out about as you dig through the depths of the internet looking for all the info you can find. Stock # HLBOSKDVR Brand Helboros Style Skin Diver Model N/A Serial N/A Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 38 Bracelet Viceroy Stainless Steel "Honeycomb-Link" Stretch Bracelet CASE & BRACELET The classic Skin Diver-style case is very well preserved, boasting crisp finishing, dimension, and angles throughout with only gentle signs of use present. The original black diving bezel is also in excellent condition, showing only light age from use and partially retaining its tritium pearl at the 12 o'clock position. The case back retains all of its factory marketing in crisp and legible condition. The watch comes supplied on an era-correct stainless steel Viceroy "honeycomb-link" stretch bracelet that suits the watch beautifully. DIAL & HANDS The original dial retains its glossy finish and features an even speckled patina throughout. All of the original tritium lume plots remain fully intact and have aged to a lovely golden color, with triangular plots at 6, 9 and 12 o'clock each featuring Arabic numerals inside. The broad arrow hour hand and syringe minute hand have both aged to a slightly lighter tone than the dial, the hour hand shows some superficial lume loss and is stable. ACCESSORIES None. The watch was recently serviced and is keeping time perfectly, backed by a 1-year warrant on accurate timekeeping.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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