Grand Seiko 45GS 4522-8010, 1970s

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

It is no secret anymore that Grand Seiko produces some of the finest watches in the world, both in terms of movement quality and craftsmanship. Looked down upon for a long time simply for being Japanese and not Swiss, discerning collectors have thankfully moved past this rather farcical notion and accepted the reality that Grand Seiko can comfortably stand alongside some of the best names in watchmaking. While its modern watches now enjoy this recognition, what is perhaps less known is that Grand Seiko has been producing watches of this quality for a long, long time. The 1960s were arguably the most important decade in Grand Seiko's history. Established in 1960 with the ambition of creating the finest watch possible, the brand spent much of the decade relentlessly pursuing accuracy, culminating in its participation at the Swiss Observatory Chronometer Competitions. It was during this period that many of the foundations of Grand Seiko as we know it today were established, both mechanically and aesthetically. Introduced in 1968, the 45GS was one of the great results of this pursuit. Produced by Daini Seikosha, it was powered by a manually wound movement beating at an incredible 36,000 vibrations per hour. At a time when most mechanical watches operated at considerably lower frequencies, the 45GS represented the cutting edge of Japanese watchmaking and sat alongside the automatic 61GS as one of Grand Seiko's flagship high-beat offerings. Here, we have an exceptionally rare Grand Seiko 45GS Ref. 4522-8010, housed in a solid 18-carat yellow gold case. While most vintage Grand Seikos were produced in stainless steel, these solid-gold examples sat at the very top of the collection and were made in significantly smaller numbers. The 4522-8010 is also the date-equipped counterpart to the time-only 4520-8010, itself one of the most coveted references from this era. What immediately sets this watch apart is its extraordinary case. Measuring 36mm, it features a broad cushion-shaped profile with beautifully defined bevels and a fine textured finish across its upper surface. The effect is subtle from a distance, but under light the texture comes alive, contrasting beautifully against the polished edges and giving the case a richness that a conventional polished or brushed finish simply wouldn't have. Combined with the heft and warmth of solid yellow gold, there is an unmistakable sense of quality the moment you pick the watch up. The dial is comparatively restrained, and I think that is exactly what makes the combination work so well. Finished in a warm silver tone, it features applied faceted hour markers, matching hands, a framed date aperture at 3 o'clock, and the signature GS emblem above the proudly printed 'HI-BEAT 36000' at 6. There is very little unnecessary decoration here. Instead, the simplicity of the dial allows the unusual case construction and finishing to take centre stage. Powering the watch is Grand Seiko's manual-winding Cal. 4522A, a 25-jewel high-beat movement developed by Daini Seikosha and beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. Beyond the impressive frequency, the movement is wonderfully slim, allowing the 45GS to retain the elegant proportions expected of a dress watch. The date version also incorporated an instant date-change mechanism, another indication of just how technically ambitious Grand Seiko was during this period. More than 50 years later, I think watches like the 4522-8010 perfectly demonstrate that the qualities we associate with Grand Seiko today are nothing new. The obsession with case finishing, precision, unusual textures, and mechanical engineering was already firmly established by the late 1960s. For me, this reference represents the pinnacle of vintage Grand Seiko. It combines one of the brand's most important high-beat movements with an exceptionally rare solid-gold case, beautiful proportions, and a level of finishing that still feels special today. Vintage Grand Seiko remains remarkably overlooked compared with its Swiss contemporaries, but when you have a watch like this in your hands, it becomes increasingly difficult to understand why.