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Wristwatches · Wrist-watch

Gold cased wristwatch with brown leather strap

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Dennison Watch Case Company (Case made by); Zenith Watch Company (Movement made by)
Date
1929 (case hallmark)
Country of origin
British Isles
Place
Birmingham (West Midlands), Switzerland
Object type
Wrist-watch
Materials / technique
gold, radium, leather, enamel, steel, brass
Dimensions
Diameter: 30.50 millimetres (case exc. crown) Width: 34 millimetres (case inc. crown) Depth: 10 millimetres (case)
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
2021,8015.1
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Gold cased wristwatch with brown leather strap (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 2021,8015.1), this is a wrist-watch by Dennison Watch Case Company, made in Birmingham (West Midlands), Switzerland, British Isles, dated 1929 (case hallmark). The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, radium, leather, enamel, steel, brass. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 30.50 millimetres (case exc. crown) Width: 34 millimetres (case inc. crown) Depth: 10 millimetres (case). The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Gold cased wristwatch with brown leather strap Case 18 carat gold case with screwed bezel opening to reveal dial and movement in white metal holder hinged in case. Dial White enamel dial with outer minute track, diamond quarter hour markers and block 5 minute markers. Arabic hour humerals (1-5, 7-12) with radium paint. Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock position with Arabic numerals (10-60). Poire squelette hour and minute hands with radium paint, black seconds hand. Movement 17 jewel hand-wound movement with club-tooth lever escapement.

Curator's comments — British Museum

This watch was the wristwatch owned and worn by noted horological collector Courtenay Adrian Ilbert, whose collection now resides at the British Museum. It is likely (based on the Ledger number Ilbert gave it in his records) that it was purchased c1931. The position of the makers name 'Zenith' on the dial is unsusual, this being more commonly found below the 12 and above the hand arbor. The letters are partly worn away, indicating it was painted on and not part of the enamel.

Inscriptions & marks

inscription; dial; ZENITH; SWISS MADE; inscription; Inside case back; DENNISON; A.L.D; 471159; hallmark; Inside case back; crown; 18; anchor E; 18 carat gold, Birmingham, 1929; inscription; movement holder; 1; 5; 9; inscription; movement; ZENITH; 17 JEWELS; 2955329; SWISS MADE

Provenance

Previous owner/ex-collection:, Courtenay Adrian Ilbert, (Ilberts personal wristwatch); Bequeathed by:, Charlotte Amanda Jane Inchbald

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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