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Girard-Perregaux Moon Watch (Ref. 9034 BB) 'Playboy', 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Girard-Perregaux Moon Watch (Ref. 9034 BB) 'Playboy', 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Girard Perregaux (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
GRDPR-PB
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (GRDPR-PB)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Girard-Perregaux Moon Watch (Ref. 9034 BB) 'Playboy' (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number GRDPR-PB), this is a wristwatch by Girard Perregaux, made in Switzerland, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Girard Perregaux has a deep lineage within Swiss watchmaking history, unofficially forming at the end of the 17th century and formally being announced as Girard Perregaux & Cie in 1852, and during their time since have created some very worthwhile and interesting watches. This ultra mid-century, incredibly stylish, and charmingly simple Girard-Perregaux is affectionately known as the 'Playboy watch' as this timepiece was once anointed in the iconic gentlemen's magazine as a wristwatch they recommend. More officially, this watch was named the 'Moon Watch' by Girard-Perregaux directly in the brand's catalog, and was designed so the hour markers appear like different phases of the moon, though this is just for aesthetics, as the watch uses the GP in-house caliber 12.3 which is a simple time-only manual wind movement. SPECS Stock # GRDPR-PB Brand Girard Perregaux Style Playboy Moon Watch Model 9034 BB Serial 12XXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Grey / White / Black Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Black Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The excellent case exhibits minimal signs of previous use and no evidence of excessive polishing in the past, retaining thick and symmetrical lugs throughout. The crown is believed to be an early service replacement. The case back retains its factory engravings in deep and crisp condition. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc black leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original dial is beautifully preserved and in great condition, despite the aging present on the right side of the dial, there are no scratches or real damage present. The original thick grey and white hands are in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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