
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Franck Muller Cintree Curvex "World Wide" 18K YG (Ref. 5850WW) Guilloché & Cloisonné Asia Dial, 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Franck Muller (maker)
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- FKMCC5850WW
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (FKMCC5850WW)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1990s Franck Muller Cintree Curvex "World Wide" 18K YG (Ref. 5850WW) Guilloché & Cloisonné Asia Dial W/ Box (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number FKMCC5850WW), this is a wristwatch by Franck Muller, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
As polarizing as the brand may be today, it is difficult not to admire the early work of Franck Muller, the celebrated independent watchmaker often referred to as the "Master of Complications." After enrolling in the Geneva Watchmaking School at just 15 years old, Muller established himself as one of the foremost restorers of complicated timepieces, performing meticulous restoration work for the Patek Philippe Museum, prominent collectors, and leading auction houses. This unparalleled exposure to some of history's greatest watches laid the foundation for his own creations, culminating in the launch of the Franck Muller brand in 1991. While the modern brand has evolved considerably, these early pieces remain highly regarded for their exceptional craftsmanship, classical proportions, and imaginative complications. The most recognizable of these designs is the Cintrée Curvex, whose gracefully curved tonneau-shaped case has become synonymous with the Franck Muller name. The most recognizable silhouette from Franck Muller is undoubtedly the Cintree Curvex, an elegant, oblong, and curved case style that was initially offered in 7 sizes. Among the most artistic interpretations of the Cintrée Curvex is the exceedingly uncommon World Wide Collection, a series created as a tribute to the romance of travel and inspired by the beautifully illustrated geographic atlases of centuries past. Produced as a set of five distinct watches, each representing one of the world's inhabited continents, Africa, Asia, Europe, Oceania, and the Americas, the collection paired traditional Swiss watchmaking with decorative métiers d'art. The present Ref. 5850WW showcases the Asia dial, featuring a breathtaking hand-executed cloisonné enamel map framed by an intricate guilloché background, created using traditional Chinese-inspired cloisonné techniques and finished entirely by hand by master Swiss artisans. Beneath its artistic exterior lies the automatic Franck Muller Cal. 2800, equipped with a platinum rotor and a practical second time-zone indication displayed by a centrally mounted serpentine 24-hour hand that can be adjusted independently via the winding crown. Beautifully blending fine art, world travel, and haute horology, the World Wide Collection stands among the most distinctive and technically impressive creations from Franck Muller's celebrated early years SPECS Stock # FKMCC5850WW Brand Franck Muller Style Cintree Curvex "World Wide" Model 5850WW Serial No. 2X Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Blue Guilloché & Multicolored "Asia" Cloisonné Millimeters 32 X 45 Strap 2pc Franck Mueller Tan Alligator Strap W/ 18K YG Franck Muller Western Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The robust, yet ergonomic, curved 18K yellow gold case is in exceptional condition, and is believed to remain unpolished. Featuring perfect factory dimensions, crisp edges, and sharp engravings throughout the case back. The case displays gentle signs of previous use, though no notable dents or dings are visible. The case retains its original crown, adorned with the Franck Muller logo. As previously mentioned, the case back exhibits no alteration from prior polishing and maintains deep hallmarks, while showing nominal signs of use. The watch comes supplied on an unworn 2pc tan alligator Franck Muller strap with the original 18K yellow gold Franck Muller western-style tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original, vibrant, and impeccably executed guilloché and cloisonné dial illustrating the continent of Asia is truly a work of art and a display of high-level craftsmanship rarely seen today. The condition of the dial is virtually immaculate, with no damage, signs of age, or imperfections present. The original solid gold hands are in perfect condition. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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