Fontainemelon Army Trade Pattern WWII British Army Military Watch, circa 1940s

Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist

Before the celebrated W.W.W. watches that collectors now know as the Dirty Dozen, the British Army was already issuing Swiss-made wristwatches to personnel during the Second World War. Among these were watches bearing the designation ATP , generally understood to stand for Army Trade Pattern . These watches were procured to meet the Army's need for reliable, practical timepieces, with an emphasis on legibility, durability and straightforward mechanical construction. Unlike the later W.W.W. watches, which became associated with black dials and more standardised military specifications, ATP watches appeared in a variety of configurations. Many featured light-coloured dials, Arabic numerals and small-seconds registers, reflecting the prevailing watch designs of the period. The Broad Arrow marking, traditionally used to identify British government property, is an important feature of these watches and remains particularly appealing to military watch collectors. Today, ATP watches offer a fascinating glimpse into the development of British military timepieces, representing an earlier chapter in the story that would eventually lead to the better-known Dirty Dozen. What's on Offer Here we have a charming Fontainemelon ATP British Army military wristwatch , dating to approximately the 1940s, with a beautifully aged cream dial and a classic wartime appearance. The stainless steel case measures 31.5mm across, with a lug-to-lug length of 38mm and an 18mm lug width. Its relatively compact dimensions are typical of the period, while the broad, angular lugs and substantial winding crown give it a purposeful appearance. The case has developed marks of wear consistent with its age and military character, but retains its attractive proportions. The warm cream dial is particularly appealing, having developed an attractive, uneven patina over the decades. Bold black Arabic numerals provide excellent contrast, accompanied by an outer railway-style minute track and a recessed small-seconds register at 6 o'clock. The black-outlined hour and minute hands feature luminous inserts, while small luminous plots sit around the outer edge of the dial. The luminous material has aged to varying shades of cream and tan, complementing the overall appearance of the watch. The dial is unsigned, giving the design a wonderfully understated, utilitarian character. Turning the watch over reveals the military markings that help tell its story. The stainless steel caseback carries the Broad Arrow and ATP designation , identifying it as a British military-pattern watch. The inside of the caseback is marked 510 , as recorded during inspection. Inside is the manually wound Fontainemelon Calibre 150 , a 15-jewel mechanical movement with a stated power reserve of approximately 44 hours. The movement has been serviced and is currently recording -18 seconds per day with an amplitude of 241° on the timegrapher. The watch is fitted with a grey-blue NATO-style fabric strap, which complements its military heritage without overpowering the attractive cream dial. There is something particularly appealing about these earlier military watches. They predate the familiar Dirty Dozen design and retain a distinctly individual appearance, while still offering the practical simplicity expected of a service timepiece. A characterful piece of British military watch history, and an interesting addition to any collection of Second World War watches.