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Elvia Automatic Diver, late 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Elvia (maker)
Date
late 1960s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
40990012
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40990012)
Catalogue title (original)
Elvia Automatic Diver (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40990012), this is a wristwatch by Elvia, dated late 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

So many interesting watch brands have been lost to time. From the well-known to the completely unrecognizable, any number of Swiss brands failed to survive the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, folding completely and disappearing or being rolled up into conglomerates that pillaged their stores of parts. Elvia is one such brand. Frankly, we couldn't find out much about them - whether they had their own factories or whether it was simply a contract licensee, we just don't know. What we DO know is that this watch - a stainless steel diver dating from the late 1960s-early 1970s - is just plain cool. With a simple and rugged ETA automatic movement with date function beating away inside, this particular watch has all the hallmarks of a golden-era diver that we so adore: Large cushion contract case with factory brushing, crisp beveling and rotating steel bezel, locking crown, and bright, luminescent hands. This watch also features an eye-catching blue gradient dial with a wildly cool textured bar bisecting the upper and lower halves, applied stick indices and stylized Arabic quadrant markers, pointed crown guards (!!), and acrylic crystal, making it one of our favorite no-name dive watch finds in quite some time.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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