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Elgin Automatic Diver (Ref. 4172), 1960s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Elgin Automatic Diver (Ref. 4172), 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Elgin (maker)
Date
1960s
Country of origin
United States
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
ELG4172
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ELG4172)
Catalogue title (original)
1960s Elgin Automatic Diver (Ref. 4172) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ELG4172), this is a wristwatch by Elgin, made in United States, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

Elgin was a watch company originating from Elgin, Illinois, and was founded in 1864 under the name "National Watch Company" and officially became "Elgin National Watch Company" in 1874. The first wristwatch for Elgin came into production in 1910 and in the Second World War, Elgin produced both watches and military instruments for the United States Military. Unfortunately, Elgin disbanded in the year 1968. All US manufacturing was discontinued and the Elgin name was sold. After the Elgin name's initial sale, the name passed through several hands which resulted in some interesting pieces that were manufactured under the Elgin name from all over the world. SPECS Stock # ELG4172 Brand Elgin Style Automatic Diver Model 4172 Serial N/A Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Blue Millimeters 39 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The lightly polished classic dive watch case is in wonderful condition, retaining strong and symmetrical lugs with the only notable sign of use being on the dis of the top right lug. The original blue bezel is in stunning original condition, remaining bright blue with light signs of use, and retains its tritium triangle at the 12 o'clock position. the case retains its original unsigned crown. The case back retains all of its original factory markings. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The matte blue dial is both bright and stylish, the dial itself is in exceptional condition with the only element of age being a small spot between the 7 and 8 o'clock marker that is only visible under a loupe. The tritium lume plots have aged to an excellent creamy yellow coloration and exhibit no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original tritium hands match the dial perfectly and display no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is functioning and keeping time perfectly, previous service history is unknown.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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