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Charlet pocket watch, circa 1770 — view 1 of 3
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Charlet pocket watch, circa 1770

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Charlet (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1770
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold
Dimensions
diameter 40.5 mm
Lot
Lot 342-30
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 30, Geneva, September 22, 2021
Catalogue title (original)
Charlet Pocket watch, quarter-repeater à toc; 18K or 20K yellow gold and enamel (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 342-30), this is a pocket watch by Charlet, dated c. 1770. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 40.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

18K or 20K yellow gold and enamel, open-face, key-winding, round-shaped, “Louis XVI” pocket watch, with one horological complication:· Quarter-repeater à toc by two hammers on the inside case (activated by depressing the pendant)Case with polychrome enamel painting décor signed lower right “• HL S •”. On the case-back, a scene showing a young couple of shepherds, the boy embracing the maiden and leering at her breast; the virgin holding a lamb under her arm in front of the faithful dog in an idyllic landscape.White enamel dial with radial Roman numerals; yellow gold “Louis XVI” hands.Movement 14’’’, gilded brass, fusee and chain, verge escapement, monometallic balance (gilded brass) and blued steel flat hairspring, pierced and engraved gilded continental cock; repeater work on the main plate, under the dial.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Movement No.: 526; Case No.: 936 (by “N A / D”, Paris); Caliber: 14’’’, fusee and chain, verge escapement; Diameter: 40.5 mm.; Weight: 56.9 gr. (approx.); Signature: movement

Inscriptions & marks

movement

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Repeating watches

Before electric light, telling the time in the dark was a real problem. Repeating watches strike the time on demand when a slide or push-piece is operated: quarter repeaters sound hours and quarters, minute repeaters hours, quarters and minutes. Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare disputed the invention in London in the 1680s. Early repeaters struck on a bell inside the case; Abraham-Louis Breguet introduced the gong (a coiled steel wire) around 1780, allowing thinner watches.

Repeaters require a separate train with racks, snails and a governor to control the striking speed, and are among the most demanding complications to make and adjust. Swiss makers of the Vallée de Joux specialised in repeating ébauches in the nineteenth century.

What to look for

  • A slide on the case band or a push-piece through the pendant.
  • Gongs encircling the movement (after c. 1780) or a bell in the case (earlier); pierced case for sound.
  • The racks, snails and governor visible under the dial or on the movement.
  • Terms such as 'Minutes', 'Quarts' or 'Répétition' on the dial or cuvette.

Dating clues

  • Bell-striking quarter repeaters: c. 1690–1800.
  • Gong repeaters and dumb repeaters (striking on the case): after c. 1780.
  • Minute repeaters became more common after c. 1830 with Vallée de Joux ébauches.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Minute repeater

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