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Cartier Tank Normale ref. 66014 'Ladies', White 'Swiss' Dial — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Tank Normale ref. 66014 'Ladies', White 'Swiss' Dial

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
c. 1980s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 24 mm
Stock no.
OC3180
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3180)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Tank Normale Ref. 66014 'Ladies' - White 'Swiss' Dial Unpolished w/ Box & Papers (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3180), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 24 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

The Cartier Tank was one of the first wristwatches. Full stop! Inspired by the Renault Tanks used on the battlefield in WWI — yes, true story. Revolutionary at the time, Louis Cartier took inspiration from the profile of the treads on a period Renault tank, and based the case on them by way of the of brancards doubling as the lugs themselves. Over the course of the 20 th Century, the Tank became the watch to wear. Silent movie stars like Rudolph Valentino, artists like Andy Warhol, and even Jackie Kennedy were all fans of the signature timepiece from the King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings. An icon indeed in the truest sense of the word. The model was first introduced in a few different case shapes which bore different names that intertwine with the inspiration behind them. Perhaps the most significant, well-known, and debatably desirable of these first pieces, the Tank Louis Cartier, was introduced in 1922 and was named after Louis Cartier himself. When people think of a Cartier Tank, theres a good change that this is the model that comes to mind. This is not one of those watches. The piece that we have here is a riff on the original design from circa 1919, now called the Tank Normale. This 'ladies' size example dates to circa the 1980s and features the correct proportions as the 'full-size' models, just in a slightly smaller 24mm x 18mm case. This example is offered in outstanding, gently worn condition, with an unpolished case exhibiting strong factory finishing throughout and even a light 'rosy' patina developing. Inside, the glossy white dial is seemingly flawless, with crisp black printing and a blued-steel 'sword' handset. It is powered by a quartz movement and comes fitted to its original burgundy leather strap with a gold-tone 'Ardillon' buckle. Furthermore, it is accompanied by a box and its guarantee booklet dated 5/18/87. A beautiful neo-vintage package by any standards, as well as a piece worthy of the iconic nomenclature that it bears.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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