Cartier Tank Asymmetric/Asymetrique 5th Avenue New York Edition Platinum, 2024

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Among the most recognisable watch designs ever created, the Cartier Tank occupies a rare position. Introduced in 1917 and inspired by the silhouette of the Renault FT tanks that Louis Cartier observed on the Western Front during the First World War, the Tank became one of Cartier’s defining creations. Over the decades, the collection has evolved through numerous interpretations in size, shape, proportion, and style, yet its core identity has remained intact. Few variations, however, depart from convention as dramatically as the Tank Asymétrique. First introduced in 1936 during the height of the Art Deco period, the Tank Asymétrique represented Cartier at its most experimental. Originally known as the “Parallélogramme” or “Losange,” it abandoned the strict rectangular form of the traditional Tank in favour of a sharply angled case and a dial layout that felt genuinely radical for its time. While unmistakably elegant, it was also deliberately unconventional, challenging the visual symmetry that defined most watchmaking of the era. The example offered here closely follows the spirit of those early designs. Its defining feature is a 30-degree slanted case and dial architecture, paired with an unusual triple-lug construction that immediately distinguishes it from the rest of the Tank family. Every hour marker is rotated one position clockwise, shifting the visual axis of the dial. The vertical axis now runs from 11:00 to 4:00, while the horizontal spans from 8:00 to 2:00, resulting in a display that initially feels disorienting yet becomes surprisingly intuitive on the wrist. This particular Tank Asymétrique is distinguished further by its exclusivity. This was not a standard production model, but a special edition created for Cartier’s Fifth Avenue boutique in New York City. While Cartier never officially disclosed production numbers, examples remain exceptionally scarce, with availability reportedly reserved for a very small circle of longstanding clients and collectors. The Asymétrique's unconventional form gives it a distinctive presence on the wrist. The 47mm x 26mm platinum 950 case carries substantial weight while retaining the refined elegance expected of a Tank. The ruby cabochon crown contrasts subtly against the ice-cool tone of the platinum case, though the dial naturally draws most of the attention. Finished with a blue sunburst texture and alternating hour markers, the dial shifts noticeably under changing light, moving between deep navy and vibrant electric blue tones. A discreet "TH" signature and dot beside the 5 o’clock marker pay tribute to Cartier's Fifth Avenue boutique, with the same commemorative theme continued through the engraved caseback. Powering the watch is the ultra-thin manual-wind Cal. 1917 MC, selected in part to accommodate the limited internal space afforded by the asymmetrical case. The movement itself is relatively straightforward, featuring 19 jewels and approximately 38 hours of power reserve, though its compact architecture was essential in preserving the case's slim profile. Historically, the Tank Asymétrique was conceived as a driver's watch. Its angled dial was designed so that when the wearer extended their arm toward a steering wheel, the display would align naturally within the driver's line of sight. Today, that original purpose feels largely obsolete, particularly in an era where automotive instrumentation is ubiquitous. Yet the appeal of the Tank Asymétrique has never rested solely on practicality. What continues to make the watch compelling is the confidence of its execution. Cartier took an idea that could easily have become novelty-driven and transformed it into something remarkably coherent. The asymmetrical display, severe lines, and distorted proportions resolve into something unexpectedly elegant rather than theatrical. Even decades later, it remains one of the few watches that genuinely feels unlike anything else on the market. Among modern executions of the Tank Asymétrique, this New York edition stands out as one of the strongest. The combination of the hefty platinum case, vivid blue dial, unusual dial layout, and boutique-exclusive status gives the watch enormous character without relying on excess. It is eccentric without becoming loud, and distinctive without sacrificing refinement. More than anything, it reflects Cartier’s longstanding ability to challenge convention without compromising elegance.