
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Dress Watch 18K YG (Ref. 252) Cal. 2520, 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- CRTDW18K252
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CRTDW18K252)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Cartier Dress Watch 18K YG (Ref. 252) Cal. 2520 (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CRTDW18K252), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
The Cartier name is synonymous with luxury and has been since the brand's inception in 1847. Offering bespoke and unique jewelry to the world’s elite allowed Cartier to grow steadily through the 19th century and eventually introduced new offerings to their clientele. While the most recognizable watch models such as the Tank, Baignoire, and Santos Dumont are primarily celebrated and deseringly so, throughout Cartier's illustrious heritage the Maison created and produced numerous watch designs, from the most simple to extravagant. Upon first glance, this is a seemingly simple dress watch from Cartier, however, its simplicity is what's so unique to Cartier in this era. The classically round 18K yellow gold case with a screw-down case back, a luminous stick-marker dial, and an automatic winding cal. 2520 movement which is also signed Cartier, are all uncommon features to see from the Maison in this era. However, regardless of the interesting details surrounding this watch, it is a simple, yet gorgeous wristwatch that remains a stylish piece today and radiates a cool vintage aesthetic. Stock # CRTDW18K252 Brand Cartier Style Dress Watch Model 252 Serial 001XX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Silver Millimeters 35 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The classic 18K yellow gold case is in excellent condition and features svelte square lugs that retain crisp angles and strong dimensions with honest signs of light use throughout. The unsigned crown is believed to be original to the watch. The screw-down case back shows gentle wear and is in excellent overall condition, featuring the factory "18K gold" engraving in deep and crisp condition. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original silver dial is very well-preserved and features a lovely vintage aesthetic with some subtle aging present throughout. The tritium lume plots all remain intact when inspected under UV light and feature a dark grey patina. The original yellow gold tritium hands match the dial perfectly with no degradation present under UV light inspection. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is functioning and keeping time, previous service history is unknown.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Clocks · 1863
Clock by Albert-Ernest Carrier-Belleuse, France, 1863
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Clocks · c. 1980s
Cartier "art Deco", c. 1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Desk Clock with Alarm, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Lacquer Arched Desk Clock with Alarm, ref. W0100037, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1963
Wristwatch with gold case and leather strap, Boucheron, Paris, about 1963.
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Wristwatches · 1960–1965
Wristwatch, France, 1960–1965
Suomen kansallismuseo
Wristwatches · c. 1960s
Longines wristwatch, 30 Ch French Case, circa 1960's
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · 1958
Breguet wristwatch, 1958
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
