Wristwatch with gold case and leather strap, Boucheron, Paris, about 1963. — view 1 of 2
View 1 of 2 · Image: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London · original image source

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Wristwatch with gold case and leather strap, Boucheron, Paris, about 1963.

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Boucheron (maker)
Date
ca. 1963
Country of origin
France
Place
Paris
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
Gold and leather
Dimensions
Length: 2.5 cm; Width: 1.8 cm
Accession / object no.
M.158&A-1987
Credit line
The Bettine, Lady Abingdon Collection, bequeathed by Mrs T. R. P. Hole

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.158&A-1987), this is a wristwatch by Boucheron, made in Paris, France, dated ca. 1963. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Gold and leather. Recorded dimensions: Length: 2.5 cm; Width: 1.8 cm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Summary

Bought from Boucheron, London, by Bettine, Lady Abingdon, in October 1963. The wristwatch proved an enduring object of fashion for both sexes. It became a pre-eminent item of male jewellery.

V&A — Physical description

Gold square case, front and sides incised with a grid pattern. leather strap

V&A — Object history

Bought from Boucheron, London, by Bettine, Lady Abingdon, in October 1963

Inscriptions & marks

Engraved BOUCHERON MADE IN FRANCE BT 1203.255; Incuse mark showing that object was intended for export

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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