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Breitling wristwatch, ref. 817, Italian Military Chronograph, circa 1955 — view 1 of 1
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Breitling wristwatch, ref. 817, Italian Military Chronograph, circa 1955

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Breitling (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1955
Country of origin
Italy
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
diameter 39 mm
Lot
Lot 364-2
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 2, Geneva, November 4-5, 2023
Catalogue title (original)
BREITLING, SWITZERLAND, REF. 817, ITALIAN MILITARY CHRONOGRAPH, STAINLESS STEEL (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 364-2), this is a wristwatch by Breitling, made in Italy, dated c. 1955. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: diameter 39 mm. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A fine, stainless steel, manual wind attractive, military chronograph wristwatch, bi-directional revolving black bezel, made for the Italian army (E.I. Esercito Italiano).

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Reference: 817; Case No.: 1434105/ E.I. 0039; Caliber: Valjoux 236, 17 jewels; Diameter: 39 mm.; Signature: Dial, Case and Movement

Inscriptions & marks

Dial, Case and Movement

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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