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Breitling wristwatch, centre-seconds AM-PM indication, 1995 — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Breitling wristwatch, centre-seconds AM-PM indication, 1995

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Breitling (brand / maker)
Date
1995
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
height 45.5 mm; width 39.4 mm
Lot
Lot 348-17
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 17, Hong Kong, March 9th, 2022
Catalogue title (original)
Breitling Self-winding, centre-seconds, AM-PM indication, two-time zone, double date; “Duograph World Cup”; limited edition of 1 000 pieces; stainless steel and yellow gold (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 348-17), this is a wristwatch by Breitling, made in Switzerland, dated 1995. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: height 45.5 mm; width 39.4 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Stainless steel, self-winding, “tonneau”-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with screwed case-back, 360° graduated unidirectional revolving bezel with 18K yellow gold riders with the points of the compass, white colour dial with five horological complications:· Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) hours with a 24-hour (AM-PM) scale (central hour index)· Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) indication (aperture at 9 o’clock)· Two-time zone (hour hand independently adjustable by the round-shaped push-pieces located on the case-band)· Instantaneous date of the month (aperture at 3 o’clock)· Second date of the month indication (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clockadjustable by the round-shaped push-pieces located on the case-band at 8 o’clock)

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: “Duograph World Cup”; Limited Edition: limited edition of 1 000 pieces especially made for the World Cup of Aerobatics, No. 463 / 1 000; Reference: B15508; Material: stainless steel and yellow gold; Bracelet: blue leather Breitling strap; Buckle: stainless steel deployant clasp; Height: 45.5 mm.; Width: 39.4 mm.; Signature: dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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