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Breguet Classique Ultra Thin Automatic, ref. 3390, 1992 — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Breguet Classique Ultra Thin Automatic, ref. 3390, 1992

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Breguet (maker)
Date
1992
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k Yellow Gold
Dimensions
Diameter 32 mm
Stock no.
CUR564
Credit line
Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR564)
Catalogue title (original)
1992 Breguet Classique Ultra Thin Automatic 3390 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR564), this is a wristwatch by Breguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1992. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k Yellow Gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 32 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge

Breguet Classique Ultra Thin Automatic reference 3390, delivered in October 1992 to Helmu Teriet GmbH Duesseldof, Germany as confirmed by the Breguet Heritage department.. This rare example features its original guilloché dial and 32mm ultra-slim coin edge case housing a fine calibre 502 automatic movement (Frederic Piguet base cal. 71). The watch is complimented by a brown alligator strap and its original Breguet GRG solid gold pin buckle. Overall the watch is in excellent condition and has recently been serviced by an independent watchmaker.

Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge

Reference: 3390; Metal: 18k Yellow Gold; Movement: Automatic Cal. 502 (Frederic Piguet Base 71); Bracelet/strap: Leather Strap W/ Original Breguet Yellow Gold Pin Buckle

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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