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Bell & Ross wristwatch, ref. BR, Aviation Type Automatic, 2000s — view 1 of 3
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Bell & Ross wristwatch, ref. BR, Aviation Type Automatic, 2000s

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Bell & Ross (brand / maker)
Date
2000s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
diameter 41 mm
Lot
Lot 359-10
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 10, Hong Kong,March 8, 2023
Catalogue title (original)
REF. BR 123, AVIATION TYPE AUTOMATIC, VINTAGE PVD-COATED STEEL (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 359-10), this is a wristwatch by Bell & Ross, made in France, dated 2000s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: diameter 41 mm. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Fine, large, self-winding, water resistant to 100 meters, PVD-coated stainless steel wristwatch with date and a PVD-coated stainless steel Bell & Ross buckle.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: BR 123; Reference: BR 123-95-SC-11131; Movement No.: 2895-2; Material: PVD-coated stainless steel; Bracelet: Bell & Ross leather strap; Buckle: PVD-coated stainless steel Bell & Ross buckle; Caliber: 27 jewels; Diameter: 41 mm.; Signature: dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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