
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Baume & Mercier Genève Sub Seconds Dress Watch, circa 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Baume & Mercier (maker)
- Date
- c. 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 30.5 mm
- Stock no.
- vws4338cs
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws4338cs)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Baume & Mercier - Genève Sub Seconds Dress Watch - c.1960s (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws4338cs), this is a wristwatch by Baume & Mercier, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 30.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 5 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
Baume & Mercier traces its origins to 1830, when the Baume brothers established their watchmaking business in Switzerland. By the 20th century, the company had become particularly associated with elegant Swiss wristwatches, balancing traditional watchmaking with increasingly modern design. Its mid-century dress watches are a good illustration of this approach, often combining relatively restrained cases with more distinctive dial treatments and manually wound movements at a time when the classic mechanical dress watch remained an everyday choice. We are pleased to offer this characterful Baume & Mercier Genève manually wound dress watch , dating from approximately the 1960s–70s. Measuring 30.5mm across, the watch has a compact, traditionally proportioned nickel plated case with long, angular lugs. The case displays honest signs of age and wear throughout, giving it the wonderfully characterful appearance we like to see in a vintage watch of this period. The two tone sector dial is undoubtedly its most distinctive feature. A warm cream centre is surrounded by a contrasting chapter ring incorporating Roman numerals at 12, 3 and 9 o'clock , with elongated baton markers occupying the remaining hours. A separate outer minute track frames the dial and adds another layer to what is an unusually detailed design. The broad, lume-filled hands have developed a warm patina, complementing the natural ageing visible across the dial. Baume & Mercier Genève is printed neatly below 12 o'clock. At 6 o'clock sits a recessed subsidiary seconds dial with concentric detailing, its own chapter ring and a slender dark seconds hand. It is particularly well integrated into the main dial and gives the watch a pleasingly traditional mechanical appearance. The watch is manually wound and powered by a 15-jewel mechanical movement . With the precise calibre currently unknown, we have left it unidentified rather than speculate. The stainless steel caseback is engraved “Waterproof, Antimagnetic, Shock Absorber” , alongside its case number, reflecting the practical qualities incorporated into the watch. Completed by a brown leather strap, the watch is rated at 8/10 condition . It displays honest age-related wear together with attractive patination to the dial and hands, all of which contribute to its distinctive vintage character.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Wristwatches · c. 1950s
Baume & Mercier wristwatch, c. 1950s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1980
Baume & Mercier wristwatch, ref. 17605, the Springfield Watch the Springfield Watch, circa 1980
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990s
Baume & Mercier wristwatch, ref. 35100, Classima, circa 1990's
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990
Baume & Mercier wristwatch, Formula Chronograph, circa 1990
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · 1945
Wristwatch by Eterna, 1945
Museum Rotterdam
Wristwatches · c. 1945
Breitling Premier, ref. 790, c. 1945
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1945
Universal Genève Uni-Compax, ref. 22492, c. 1945
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1950
Jaeger Lecoultre Triple Calendar, c. 1950
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
