Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100SA 'Midsize', Grey 'Tapisserie' Dial

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

It’s not unfair to say that Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watches ever made. Designed in 1972 by Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak completely changed the way that we look at a steel sports watch. For the first time, stainless steel was treated as a precious metal - receiving complex finishing techniques of brushing, polishing, and beveling - all by hand. The idea that its eight hexagonal bezel screws would be finely finished and left exposed for the wearer to see was a revolutionary thought. It’s no surprise that the model became the calling card for the family owned Audemars Piguet - not to mention one of the most sought after watches in the world. While the initial 5402 was time-only, AP quickly began to capitalize on the success of the Royal Oak and begin to integrate other complications and variations into this case. Which leads us to the Royal Oak that we have here, a 'midsize' Reference 4100SA. These pieces embody the ethos of the original Ref. 5402 'Jumbo' models, just in a slightly smaller and equally svelte 35mm case. In fact, at a glance, the only thing that differentiates it from its larger sibling, is the presence of a running central seconds hand. This particular example dates to circa 1979 and comes to us in strong overall condition. The case, matching two-tone integrated bracelet, and characteristic octagonal bezel show normal signs of wear throughout with visible factory finishing. The grey micro-tapisserie dial within exhibits minimal wear to the textured surface and presents excellent, with the applied Tritium-filled indices and matching handset evenly patinated as well. Flip it over and there is a small, unusual engraving that reads: "Or et acier" — French for "gold and steel." Without a doubt, two-tone watches are polarizing... However, there is something about a two-tone Royal Oak, in any form, that just works. The two metals are perfectly distributed in the form of the bracelet links, the bezel, and the dial components, and amount to a very well-rounded wearing experience. The 35mm size lends itself to, we think, a more comfortable wearing experience for more people, in fact, we'd say virtually any wrist, versus the way a full size 39mm Royal Oak which can fit a little odd on some wrists due to how flat it is. These watches strike the perfect balance between the size and value proposition that a Royal Oak can offer.