
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Midsize' ref. 14790ST, 'Second Series'
- Maker / attribution
- Audemars Piguet (maker)
- Date
- c. mid 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- OC3040
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3040)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Midsize' Ref. 14790ST - 'Second Series' W/ Box, Papers, & Extract (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3040), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated c. mid 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke
It’s not unfair to say that Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watches ever made. Designed in 1972 by Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak completely changed the way that we look at a steel sports watch. For the first time, stainless steel was treated as a precious metal - receiving complex finishing techniques of brushing, polishing, and beveling - all by hand. The idea that its eight hexagonal bezel screws would be finely finished and left exposed for the wearer to see was a revolutionary thought. It’s no surprise that the model became the calling card for the family owned Audemars Piguet - not to mention one of the most sought after watches in the world. While the initial 5402 was time-only, AP quickly began to capitalize on the success of the Royal Oak and begin to integrate other complications and variations into this case. Which leads us to the Royal Oak that we have here, a 'midsize' Reference 14790ST. These pieces embody the ethos of the original Ref. 5402 'Jumbo' models, just in a slightly smaller and equally svelte 36mm case. In fact, at a glance, the only thing that differentiates it from its larger sibling, is the presence of a running central seconds hand. This particular example from circa the mid 1990s remains in excellent overall condition. It's case and bracelet have been professionally restored, with defined finishing visible throughout. The piece shows only faint, uniform wear across the bezel, case and bracelet with no significant blemishes or damage. The blue dial inside is beautifully preserved, retaining a rich blue color throughout with no major damage or wear to speak of. The applied Tritium-filled indices are all even in color and are complimented by a nicely matching Tritium handset. Accompanying this piece is the inner wood box, stamped certificate of origin, and extract from the archives of AP. These watches strike the perfect balance between the size and value proposition that a Royal Oak can offer. The 36mm size lends itself to, we think, a more comfortable wearing experience for more people, in fact, we'd say virtually any wrist, versus the way a full size 39mm Royal Oak which can fit a little odd on some wrists due to how flat it is. Whats not to like?
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Clocks · c. 1990s
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, c. 1990s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Pocket Watches · c. 1960
Audemars Piguet ''couteau'', c. 1960
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Pocket Watches · originally sold in November 1961 (per the lot record)
Audemars Piguet "extra Plate", ref. 5633 BA, originally sold in November 1961
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Pocket Watches · c. 1980
Audemars Piguet pocket watch, c. 1980
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · 2008
Wristwatch by Breitling?, 2008
Museum Rotterdam
Wristwatches · c. 1990s
Audemars Piguet Bamboo, c. 1990s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990
Audemars Piguet Huitieme Perpetual Calendar, ref. 25696PT, c. 1990
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1990
Breitling Chronomat, ref. b13050.1, c. 1990
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
