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Audemars Piguet "John Schaeffer" 14994BC White "Breguet Numerals" Dial in 18k White Gold, 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet "John Schaeffer" 14994BC White "Breguet Numerals" Dial in 18k White Gold, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k white gold
Dimensions
Case 33 mm
Stock no.
W-3358
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-3358)
Catalogue title (original)
Audemars Piguet "John Schaeffer" 14994BC White "Breguet Numerals" Dial in 18k White Gold (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-3358), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k white gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 33 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

The Audemars Piguet “John Schaeffer” collection dates back to the 1990s, when AP launched its cushion-shaped line, embodying the spirit of haute horlogerie. John Schaeffer was a wealthy American entrepreneur and art collector with a strong appreciation for Audemars Piguet in the early 20th century. He holds historical significance for commissioning one of the very first wristwatches with a minute repeater, made by AP in 1907—at a time when pocket watches still dominated. In essence, the John Schaeffer collection pays tribute to a key figure in AP’s heritage and to one of the earliest complicated wristwatches ever created. This particular example, crafted in 18k white gold ( RARE!! ), features a classic 33mm cushion-shaped case and a glossy white dial adorned with bold black-painted Breguet numerals. As a forerunner to the brand’s Tradition collection, the John Schaeffer line remains a favorite among collectors and purists. The case is in excellent condition, as is the dial. We especially appreciate the striking black Breguet numerals, which bring a refined elegance to the design. The dial includes a small seconds sub-dial in the lower half and is complemented by cathedral-style hands. The watch is presented on the pictured strap, fitted with an 18k white gold Audemars Piguet folding buckle. Inside, the hand-wound Calibre 2085 movement has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. This AP represents an iconic brand but remains slightly off the beaten path, and we love that about it. Visit us at our watch lounge or arrange a call to discuss this unique watch in more detail. Specifications: - Audemars Piguet dress watch "John Schaeffer" Reference 14994 - 33mm 18k white gold cushion-shaped case - Serial number D843xx dating to the 1990s - White dial with black-painted Breguet-style numerals - Small seconds display - Calibre 2085 manual-wind movement - Comes on the pictured strap with an 18k white gold AP buckle - Fully serviced by our watchmaker

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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