
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
1980s Gruen Curvex Quartz Dress Watch, Gold-Plated Case, Sub-Seconds Dial, Original Strap & Buckle
- Maker / attribution
- Gruen (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Auction house
- LiveAuctioneers auction archive
- Lot
- Item 215223816
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: lot 35, Exclusive Watches and Jewlery, Sphere Auctions LLC (2025), via LiveAuctioneers
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1980s Gruen Curvex Quartz Dress Watch, Gold-Plated Case, Sub-Seconds Dial, Original Strap & Buckle, (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by LiveAuctioneers auction archive (lot Item 215223816), this is a wristwatch by Gruen, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Lot description — Sphere Auctions LLC
Vintage Gruen Curvex wristwatch, reference 208-860-163, circa 1980s. Features a rectangular gold-plated case marked “5 Micron G.P. Back, Base Metal Bezel,” with a champagne dial signed Gruen Curvex. Applied gilt Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, and matching gilt hands. Fitted with original Gruen-signed leather strap and buckle. Swiss-made quartz movement. Caseback stamped “Gruen Swiss Since 1874.” Watch is running at cataloging. A fine later example of the historic Gruen Curvex line, combining vintage-inspired styling with quartz accuracy.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Quartz, digital and electronic watches
Electronic watches arrived in three steps. The Hamilton Electric 500 (1957) was the first battery-powered wristwatch, still with a balance; Bulova's Accutron (1960) used a tuning fork. On 25 December 1969 Seiko released the Astron 35SQ, the first quartz wristwatch, closely followed by the Swiss Beta 21 group. In 1972 Hamilton's Pulsar introduced the LED digital watch, and LCD displays soon made digital watches cheap.
The 'Quartz Crisis' that followed devastated the Swiss mechanical industry, which lost two-thirds of its workforce between 1970 and 1984 before recovering with the Swatch (1983) and the luxury mechanical revival. Solar, radio-controlled, kinetic and connected smartwatches continue the electronic line.
What to look for
- Battery hatch in the case back and calibre markings with 'Quartz' or a crystal frequency.
- Display technology: LED (red, push-button) versus LCD (always-on).
- Tuning-fork hum and a smoothly sweeping seconds hand on Accutrons.
- Model and reference numbers, often printed on the back.
Dating clues
- Electric balance watches: from 1957.
- Tuning-fork watches: 1960–c. 1977.
- Quartz analogue: from December 1969; LED digital: 1972–c. 1978; LCD from 1973.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Seiko calibre 35A (Astron)
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