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Zodiac Automatic Chronometre (Ref. 725-322) 18K YG, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Zodiac Automatic Chronometre (Ref. 725-322) 18K YG, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Zodiac (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
ZACHR725322
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ZACHR725322)
Catalogue title (original)
1950s Zodiac Automatic Chronometre (Ref. 725-322) 18K YG (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ZACHR725322), this is a wristwatch by Zodiac, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

SPECS Stock # ZACHR725322 Brand Zodiac Style Automatic Model 725-322 Serial 53XXXX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial Silver "Aged" Millimeters 34 Bracelet 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The 18K yellow gold case is in great condition with straight lugs that show honest signs of use. The case retains its original Zodiac-signed crown. The case back features a personalized engraving and is otherwise super clean, especially considering its age. The watch will come supplied on a 2pc leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The originally silver dial has patinated to a "tropical" champagne color that adds to the vintage nature of the watch. The hour markers, hands, Zodiac logo, and even date window are all gold, which offers a regal quality. The inlaid gold enamel on the hands adds to the watch's sophisticated presence and remains fully intact. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Automatic (self-winding) watches

Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.

What to look for

  • A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
  • 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
  • A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.

Dating clues

  • Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
  • Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
  • Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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